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khi nok, among other things

Tag Archives: Thailand

Happy 3 month anniversary, Nakrian! I started this blog with a post about border runs, and here we are—a full three months later and a second visa run under my belt. All in all, the trip was successful. I paid the Thai/Cambodian entrance and exit fees, tipped the “immigration aides” (…ugh), and subsequently got all the right stamps, stickers, and signatures in my passport.

While the day started out fairly nice, what with a light blue sky and a bit of heat, it slowly progressed into all-too-typical rainy season weather: gray skies, drizzling rain, and periodic downpours. The weather, coupled with the high number of travelers at the border, made the trip a little less relaxed than last time.

But hell, I can’t complain—I got my visa extended and that was precisely the reason for the trip. Following the immigration rodeo, we decided to check out a popular Thai market on the border.

I can describe the “popular” market in one word: gross. I still can’t get over how much trash, dirt, and mucky rain water there was. I also can’t get over how much of it got on my clothes. Gross. I am no priss, but good lord it was a hot mess. It was a pretty typical Thai market: designer knockoffs (Lacoste, Nike, YSL) sold alongside elephant tusks, mosquito rackets, and bicycles assembled in China. The market wasn’t a total waste: Michael bought 12 pairs of work socks for 150฿ (roughly $5) and I took a lot of pictures and we all laughed quite a bit. 🙂

But, look! 3 more months of blissful ex-patriot life (that is, until my next border run)!

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I was enjoying a bit of afternoon AC and a refreshing iced green tea at Shine’s Café before venturing out into the muggy oven that is my village when my adorable, trouble-making student, Poon, burst into the café.

Poon, my 5 year-old student

“Teacher! Teacher!” He yells.

Sawatdii kah, Poon.” I respond.

Kong Kwan! For you! Longan!” He says in his best attempt at an indoor voice.

He hands me a large bag of longan– I’m assuming picked fresh from his yard judging by the number of ants crawling on the stems of the shelled fruit.

Kobp kun kah, Poon! Thank you.”

“You’re welcome, Teacher.” He rattles off his memorized response like a calculator responding to the input “1+1=.”

Poon grins, wais, and runs out the door and into his mother’s idling car.

This cute little interaction was a great pick-me-up before my 5 mile (8km) training run. Love my students!

Longan, aka Dragon Eyes

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Emiko and I went to Bangkok on July 7th to do some light shopping and sight-seeing. We happened upon a soi* that was celebrating one of the most romantic (Japanese) holidays of the year: Tanabata**. This holiday celebrates the love and marriage of two stars: Orihime, the Weaving Princess, and Hikoboshi, the Shepherd. Their romance was all-encompassing and passionate– so much so that they ended up neglecting their sky-duties. Tenkou, the Sky King (and Orihime‘s father), was angry at the two lovers and so he sent them to live at opposite sides of the Milky Way so they could focus on their work. However, Tenkou was sympathetic to the desires of his lovelorn daughter, so he allowed the couple the opportunity to meet once a year, every year– as long as the young couple worked very hard to complete their duties over the ensuing months.

The celestial reunion of Orihime and Hikoboshi usually happens on July 7th, when the stars Vega and Altair are in close proximity to one another. If you happen to be in Japan on July 7th, and the night is clear, you just might be able to witness the heady reunion of the star-couple.

Traditionally, the Japanese celebrate the Star Festival by writing wishes and desires on tanzaku (brightly-colored paper streamers) and then hanging the inscribed streamers–along with other paper decorations–on bamboo trees. After the festival the streamers are burned in a bright bonfire to help make the wishes come true.

Writing wishes on streamers for Tanabata

Tanzaku hanging from the branches of a bamboo tree

While my wish wasn’t romantic or even that specific, I do hope it comes true– through hard work and inner-reflection (I wrote on my tanzaku that I want to be a happier and healthier person). Although, now that I am thinking about it, a little magic every now and then is always nice. I could certainly stand some glitter in my life (kind of like Newt Gingrich in this video).

* Alley-way

** The Star Festival

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Found this little guy today and wanted to share him with you!

A gold dust weevil

He's trying to eat my freckles!

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A few weekends ago, the gang and I decided to take a little sight-seeing trip to Pak Chong in Nakhon Ratchasima province (roughly an hour from my village). We drove by rice and tapioca farms, mountains, temples, and many street stalls. The views were absolutely breathtaking; it seemed as though everything was in Technicolor. Pak Chong, in my opinion, is Thailand’s interpretation of The Wizard of Oz.

Pak Chong is replete with many richly colored farms and fields

Field ready for planting with mountain back-drop in Pak Chong

After making a few stops along the way to take pictures and buy fruit at road-side stands (custard apples & 2lb mangoes), we finally arrived at our intended destination: Khao Lak Chang Bat Cave. The cave is about 3km from Khao Yai National Park and is actually quite difficult to find without the aid of GPS and a Thai-speaking friend.

We arrived at Khao Lak Chang at a quarter after 5:00pm which gave us enough time to hike up the mountain for a closer look at the cave before the bats began their nightly hunt. The mountain was rocky and the soil quite fertile, so hiking up to the cave was like a game of chutes and ladders: three steps forward, one slip back!

Hiking (and falling) up to the Khao Lak Chang cave

The smell of urine and guano grew exponentially stronger the closer we got to the cave’s entrance, as did the presence of flies and mosquitoes (the joke of the climb was that we were “undeturd” by the smell–clever, I know). The tiny cries of the khang-khaw* became more audible and more persistent, until I thought I would go crazy from the odor, the flies, and the droning chirps and shrieks of the bats.

Entrance of Khao Lak Chang Bat Cave

A gate was erected to protect the khang-khaw from meddling sight-seers (i.e. people like us), so we could not go exploring inside the cave. However, we were able to climb up the gate and snap a few photos of the immediate entrance. This was perhaps not a very safe endeavor as the mountain was steep, but it did yield some good shots of the activity inside the cave.

Khang-khaw preparing for their nighttime departure

While we might not have been able to see much inside the cave, the view of the farms and horizon below us were absolutely incredible.

View from the entrance of Khao Lak Chang Bat Cave

Shortly after seeing a 5-foot-long (1.5m) black, king cobra near the cave entrance (an adrenaline-inducing experience to be sure), khang-khaw began to make their way out of the cave to go on their nightly hunt. I snapped a few photos before we hurried down the mountain to take in the show in its entirety.

Bats beginning to exit the cave

Millions of bats leaving the cave at sunset

Clouds, mountains, and mountains of clouds

Bats, bats, bats!
Every so often Thai children would scream, causing the bats to momentarily scatter across the sky before reuniting in their tight stream

A cluster of khang-khaw

Filing out of the cave to go on their nighttime hunt for food

The show, which starts around 5:45-6:00pm, lasts for roughly an hour and a half. If you are ever lucky enough to see the rare, wrinkle-lipped bats leaving their cave in Pak Chong, you will be in for quite a spectacle. The sound of the bats overhead is like a strong wind, which is punctuated now and then by the shrieks and screams of young Thai children trying to disrupt the path of the bats. The experience was amazing and I strongly encourage all tourists and residents of Thailand to check out Khao Lak Chang Bat Cave.

* Bats

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Joanna Newsom

I know, I know, this is not exactly a Thailand related post. But, I’ve been feeling a little homesick this week (among other things!) and California-native Joanna Newsom’s masterful lyrics and virtuosic harp-plucking  is more than enough to get me through it. I wholeheartedly encourage you to check her out (please, please do!). Peach Plum Pear, Bridges and Balloons, Sadie, The Book of Right-ON, and Sprout and the Bean are good pieces to start with. You might just get as caught up in her avant-garde style as I have.

Joanna Newsom is not a traveler– well, at least not by choice. “I really would have preferred, if everything I need to do in this life would just come to my front door,” she told Jody Rosen (of Slate.com) in an interview. While this is quite contrary to my own sentiments, I can truly understand how her Nevada City calls to her– it’s very much like how my self-imposed hometown never quite leaves my thoughts. Her warbling song, In California, punctuates her feelings on the matter.

Some nights I just never go to sleep at all, and I stand, shaking in my doorway like a sentinel, all alone, bracing like the bow upon a ship, and fully abandoning any thought of anywhere but home, my home.

Longing for the familiar, nostalgia, sadness– these feelings are not new among the ex-pat community. Odysseus himself wept at the thought of his home and aging family. These feelings ebb and flow, much like Joanna Newsom’s siren-singing. Fortunately, during this latest wave of homesickness, I have her songs to pacify me and to remind me fondly of my roots.

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In Thai ghost-lore, if you are an abusive son or daughter (or if you have committed parricide), you will become the unfortunate pii braed when you die. What’s pii braed, you ask? Well, it is, quite simply, a giant, lanky ghost. The crimes you committed against your parents will determine your ghost-body’s bizarre proportions. For instance, if you were known to hit your mother, your ghost will have apishly-long arms with giant, heavy hands. If you were one to kick your father, your ghost’s legs will be towering and stilt-like and your feet, enormous. In addition to having a distorted corporeal body, the pii braed features a sucker-like mouth, much like the lamprey’s oral disk.

I’m not quite sure of the reason behind pii braed‘s small suckermouth, although, I’ve certainly asked enough Thais about it. The best we can figure is that the mouth inhibits the pii braed from ever being satiated by food or drink– some last ditch punishment from the spirit-world for being a horrendous son or daughter. It is worth mentioning that in Thailand (as in many Asian societies), respect for one’s elders is a major part of the cultural fabric. This ghost-story is meant to teach children to respect one’s parents, to never abuse them, to never kill them– lest you become a homely pii braed.

The following is a video of pii braed caught on cellphone!

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